 
Each information box is split into several categories and for the most part the information provided is self-explanatory. While every effort has been made to ensure that all the information is correct we accept no responsibility for any inaccuracies because the
specifications of machines are changing constantly and we are only human.
Most machines are sold under the name of the company that makes them but a few are sold under an established brand name which is different from the parent company’s (eg Gilera rather than Piaggio). Some independent Far-Eastern suppliers make essentially the same machine for two different importers each of whom will give it a different name, and price (eg. Adly and Motoroma). Manufacturers also sometimes market the same model under different marque names in different countries or even, as in the case of the Yamaha/MBK range, in the same country but from different retail outlets. Confusing, ain’t it?
• The online guide now shows you the brand name and model, and in the details - the Manufacturer and Importer.
i.e. TGB (brand name) 404 Executive (Model)
Manufacturer: Taiwan Golden Bee Co (Taiwan)
Importer: ACG Ltd
Most of the machines sold in the UK are the same as those destined for other markets, except for headlights dipping left and speedo facias marked in miles per hour. Note that some machines sold may have MPH speedo facias but still have odometers that work in kilometres. Remember this when calculating service intervals and make sure when you sell a machine that you tell the prospective buyer that the mileage is actually nearly 40 per cent less than appears to be indicated.
The UK is often one of the last places in Europe to get new updates of current models because the importers tend to try to get rid of their old stock before replacing it. However, completely new models are coming out so fast that old models are often deleted rather than updated.
We have made extensive efforts to print the actual price that a customer will pay to get a new machine on the road. With the ‘No Hidden Charges’ policy of many European manufacturers, this is easy because their dealers shouldn’t charge a penny more than the current list price to get a machine on the road, unless you want extras or accessories of course.
For other brands it’s more difficult because many of them list prices that don’t include On The Road (OTR) charges, and sometimes it’s even left up to the individual retailer how much they charge for number plate, pre-delivery inspection, road tax, fuel and delivery. We have asked the manufacturers what they think is the average OTR cost a dealer would charge and have then added that to the list price. So you may find dealers charging slightly more or slightly less to get a scooter on the road.
The other thing to bear in mind is discounting. Dealers are naturally eager to sell machines and some dealers will knock a bit off the price just to make sure you don’t take your custom elsewhere. Where dealers have been told to stop discounting, they may offer free or very cheap extras instead as part of the deal: clothing, training, cheap finance or insurance, or accessories such as racks or top boxes. Don’t be afraid to haggle.
This is obviously a contentious subject and no two machines will ever perform identically. What we have done for all the 50cc machines sold in restricted guise (for use on a moped class licence) is to quote their top speed as 30mph, which is, by definition, the maximum speed that a moped may do. In reality these restricted machines may actually have a top speed of anywhere between 25 and 40mph on the flat. It is often possible to de-restrict the engine, but not all dealers and importers will help with this. There is a good reason for this, since the regulations for mopeds are different from those for scoots capable of higher speeds, which are classed as motorcycles.
Some of the restricted machines coming through at the moment don’t have twin filament headlights or a number plate light. As 30mph mopeds this is permissible but once de-restricted they need the higher specification to remain road legal. In practice there is no simple way for an MoT tester to tell if a machine has been de-restricted, but don’t expect any help from an importer to make your scoot illegal and don’t be surprised if its moped status is questioned if you are caught by the police doing 50mph! Riding a de-restricted machine without the necessary licence or insurance is of course a serious offence... and power restrictions also apply to other categories.
To be learner legal, 125cc machines must not produce more than 15bhp (11kW) although in practice, very few 125cc scooters actually make as much as this as standard. Tuning your machine to make more than 15bhp if you haven’t passed your test is of course illegal. 15bhp is just about enough to do a genuine 70mph but most speedometers are optimistic – an indicated 70mph is more likely to be a true 65mph or less. For this reason, where possible, we measure top speeds with far more accurate GPS satellite receivers, with the rider sat normally on a flat road. ‘EST’ means the top speed is only an estimate.
Anyone who takes their motorcycle test on a 125
will only receive a category A licence, which means that they may not ride a machine with more than 33bhp (25kW) for two years. All current scooters under 400cc (including the Suzuki Burgman AN400, which is actually 385cc) fall within this limit. Only the very latest 500 and 600cc megascoots make more power than this and even they can still be ridden on an automatic (as opposed to a manual) licence since all of them so far are still ‘twist and go’. Scooters marked with a symbol can only be ridden after holding a Cat A licence for two years or passing via direct access.
TIP:
• For help with licensing and what you need, see our page: LICENSING
WATCH FOR:
Modifying your scooter can invalidate your insurance. If you are de-restricting a 50cc bike ensure you have the correct license, and you notify your insurers. If you are buying a scooter already de-restricted, again make this clear to the insurance company quoting you beforehand.
The scooters, prices and deals we have listed are solely those officially imported by manufacturer owned or appointed concessionaires (apart from the Honda Joker/Shadow). The alternative is to buy a 'grey' or 'parallel' imported machine, which are scooters that enter the UK via an unofficial (but legal) source.
A 'grey' is a model of scooter that is not officially imported in to the UK at all (Honda Joker/Shadow for example), whereas a 'parallel' import is a machine that is also available officially on these shores but imported by an independent company other than the official concessionaire.
TIP:
Our advice before buying ANY imported scooter is that you make a thorough investigation of the deal, as these tend to favour certain customers, but can be financially disastrous for others. What can sometimes initially appear a bargain on paper may lead to complications in the long term with regards to vehicle specification and warranty, and remember that brand subsidised insurance is unlikely to apply to imports either.
WATCH FOR:
When buying a chinese scooter especially - always check that parts are readily available for the scooter. See if there are any dealers nearby who stock or are prepared to work on them. There have been several cases of people buying a very cheap scoot from a catalogue, and then finding there is no way of getting it repaired or seen to in event of a problem.
You pay for what you get - so if you are looking for save by buying a cheaper import model - make time to do some basic checks.
Many scooter companies now offer either free insurance, reduced rate insurance or subsidised fixed rate insurance with the purchase of new scooters. While these deals often offer great value for money (VFM) remember that your age and the area in which you live may mean that you can find cheaper insurance elsewhere, and also that the renewal premium in 12 months’ time won’t carry the same subsidy and may come as a nasty shock.
 To help you explore other avenues we list the insurance groups for each model.
Carole Nash Insurance Brokers (0800 298 5500) have provided us with the grouping data used to categorise these scooters by two of the biggest companies, Norwich Union (NU) and Equity Red Star (ERS).
‘TBC’ has been inserted for machines for which no group rating has been provided yet. The way insurers rate the bike groupings varies and is based upon their personal claims experience for each model. For example, if NU have 200 claims a year on a Honda SH50 and ERS have 300, then ERS will rate it in a higher group.
The cost of repair is also taken into account. While NU don’t seem to be too bothered about most mopeds ERS rate some 50cc machines in the same group as a Vespa PX200 or higher – despite their performance being restricted. This is undoubtedly because more and more automatic mopeds are being fitted with expensive liquid-cooled engines and trick parts, all of which mean increased cost should the scooter be crashed or stolen.
If you have a scooter stolen, your insurance is bound to go up, so think of anti-theft devices as a sound investment – and don’t forget to use them. Peugeot lead the way here with most of the range being offered with their boa lock and engine immobiliser as standard. Well worth the extra cash over a standard model.
Piaggio four-stroke scoots now also come with an engine immobiliser. Suzuki also need praise for their nifty ‘ignition key’ security cover on some of their range. Others also feature some sort of security feature, but at the end of the day these are only any good if you use them. An immobiliser or alarm does not stop a bike from physically being carried away, and whilst security marking (Datatag, Alphadot, Smartwater) may help get it back, that’s not the point.
At the end of the day you need at least one decent lock and you must use it to secure the scooter to something solid.
TIP:
Keep you scoot out of visable sight at home if possible. Fit a ground anchor and invest in a heavy duty chain/lock. Many have been revied in past issues of T&G.
Before scooting along the highways and byways of our fair nation, we advise you invest in some clothing to protect you against both the elements and any minor indiscretions that may occur whilst going about your business.
With regards to crash helmets the first rule of thumb is that you spend as much as you can afford. New EU regulations are arguably less stringent than the old British Standards, but a lid with a Gold ACU sticker is of a high enough standard to go racing in, and therefore more than good enough for the road. As for clothing, well T-shirt and flip-flops may be all the rage on the Costa del Sol, but are hardly ideal for British weather or indeed likely to offer any protection in a crash. A decent riding jacket can be purchased for less than £100 that should provide protection against both, and a good pair of leather or Cordura gloves start at around £25 upwards.
There are a minority of 'bandwagon' type dealers out there offering what we consider to be 'inadequate' rider clothing. If in any doubt consult with a friend, colleague, or a couple of other dealers to see what they think, but remember that the unknown brands can sometimes be as good as the famous names. A point worth noting however is that the gear worn by test riders in this magazine tends to be of good quality, for obvious reasons. Apart from wearing it in the photos, we occasionally review it too!
In theory the cheaper a scooter is to buy, then the cheaper it should be to run. Certainly replacement body and engine parts for some machines from the Far East are extremely competitive, but then we have also had reports of scooters from certain countries falling apart from the word go so beware you don’t get lured into a false economy.
By the way, in this particular instance the ‘Far East’ does not include Japanese scooters whose parts can sometimes be notoriously expensive.
So as not to invalidate a manufacturer’s warranty you are usually required to fit genuine parts to your scoot. We’d also recommend this, as well as the use of good quality lubricants to keep these parts in the best condition possible. Once the warranty has expired your dealer or friends may well be able to suggest some cheaper pattern parts that are of equal quality. However there is always a risk involved in straying from the manufacturer’s recommendations, so if you are unsure stick to what you know.
When calculating running costs also remember that the larger the engine, then the more expensive the parts are likely to be. Compare the cost of a drive belt for a Speedfight 50 to that of a Silverwing or Tmax for a real shock. The latter have more brake pads to change too, and I’d wager the tyres will cost a bomb. All scooters require regular servicing to keep them in top condition so again, if you are used to simply changing the engine oil and occasional broken cable on a Vespa PX then please do your sums before upgrading to a super scooter that may be beyond your means. Finally, the bigger the cc, the bigger the Road Tax too.
 This is our label for machines that we think offer particularly good value for money and you will see that those chosen are usually pictured more prominently on each page. Our decision is based on a balance of price against a range of other factors including build quality, reputation, ride quality, performance, warranty and general specification.
We also take into account deals from the importers such as special insurance rates or additional security devices. It follows that our Good Value awards don’t necessarily go to the best scooters in each category, just the ones that offer good all-round capability for the best price. Unlike some other publications, we only give the award to scooters that we have actually ridden which is why some of those that may appear to be good value aren’t included. As prices and deals change, so will the scooters that receive this accolade
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